brunettebubbles

: brunettebubbles; March 2nd, 0:07

So, the local Steam Federation - Bay Area Steampunk Association is having a get-together March 11th. I'm making an outfit, based on a business I partner with, Tea and Absinthe.

I'm making the prototype of the bustle to go with it. One side will be black satin, and I want to find a fun print to put on the reverse. I may need to take a trip to Stone Mountain & Daughter Fabrics in Berkeley. I'm thinking cotton with a clock pattern. I better get a move on it, though if I wanna finish it in time. Please note: the little bit of white ruffle is just to check how it will look, it will be replaced with w black ruffle going all the way around, like the draft in the last post.

The "vest" is actually a sleeveless shell that I wore for my brother's wedding. I wear it backwards, with the "lapels" tacked down and the embroidery in the back. The skirt fabric is not proper historic reenactment material (chenille upholstery), but it is made up of remnants from material I used to make one of the owners of Tea and Absinthe an early 18th c. vest. So, you know, reduce, reuse, blah blah.

I also want to make an aesthetic dress to wear to the Legion of Honor's The Cult of Beauty: The Victorian Avant-Garde, 1860-1900 exhibition (through June 17, 2012). I will be going later this month for my birthday and I have always wanted to make an aesthetic dress. I'm using a 1882 natural form pattern by Truly Victorian and altering it to look more like this:

I have some fantastic silk fallie I got in NYC before moving that has an aqua warp and orange weft so it looks grey with orange and aqua highlights. Awesome.

I'm going to pair it with a dragonfly embroidered Chinese silk of aqua. So pretty. Granted, the Chinese motif is a bit more orientalism than Pre-Raphaelite, but the Aethetic Movement was also inspired by Asian art, so it still works.

(The green jacket is a design idea for Tea and Absinthe, more to come on that.)

There will be a public event happening at the Legion of Honor where costumed individuals are encouraged to attend but, its the same day and time as the Steam Federation's to do. I may be bold and go to both (2 hours at one, 2 hours at the other). It depends how quickly I can make BOTH outfits.

Proooooooooooocrastination

: brunettebubbles; February 25th, 16:16

So, I should be cleaning, organizing, dusting, and vacuuming my studio. But, instead I'm procrastinating here on the internet. Newest fad to catch my attention?

Miniature portraits. I have always loved these romantic mementos. I am quite good at drawing and painting portraits. I like miniatures. And I'm a romantic. New Money Making Scheme: Miniature portraits stylized to fit a re-enactor's time period of choice. I wonder if I could do this as Pennsic?

So, here is my current endeavor/test:

Image (pulled from interweb)

Untitled and in progress, 4"x4", Acrylic on cardboard.

I will need more painting supplies (gesso, mix meduim) and brushes. Mmmmmm. Brushes. I want to try painting one or two with gouache, a medium I have used with mediocre success.
So far, I am painting from photos of re-enactors as tests to se how fast and how accurate my technique. First, I do a few warm up timed sketches.

These are the five minute sketches.

Then, I paint for about 2 hours. I even found a small magnifying glass to help!

I may be taking a trip to the library to see if I can learn some tricks and techniques about portrait painting from their tomes of knowledge.

Tags: art, painting, portrait

Adventures in Bustle-dom

: brunettebubbles; February 21st, 23:53

Current Commission: 18th c. Silk Stays.
Progress: Boning - measuring, cutting, tipping, repeat. Its kind of murder on my wrist and gets the carpal tunnel going after an hour, but Its nice, mindless work.
Bones done so far: 118
Bones to go: 52

Current Pet Project: tie-on overskirt/bustles that are one size fits all, reversible and adjustable in fullness and length (in other words it can look like any of the bustle looks from 1870-1890). And, of course, it must have ruffles. Or fringe. Or ball fringe.

I LOVE ball fringe. I also like saying "ball fringe".

The first draft was a good test. Although I prefer pleating at the waistband of the 1st version, I find that a better "works for everyone" look is achieved with gathering the fullness. The gathers are more forgiving if the underskirt or underpinnings are different from what I am draping over (which is nothing, because I want someone who chooses to wear pants or a simple skirt, or who have large hips sans bustle to still find the overskirt/bustle appealing).

Back
I also added a thick ruffle of tulle (that will go between the layers) near the top of the center back seam and a thinner one at the bottom. This way when you pull the ribbons in the center back (like a drawstring) you can increase the fullness.

Back with the drawstring pulled.

Front with drawstring pulled.

Side with the drawstring pulled. So much bustle-y goodness*.

The tulle is hidden inside of the skirt, between the 2 layers of facing.

Front, drawstring not pulled. You can see the blue tulle sticking out underneath this unlined draft. Mind you, this is only the right side of the draft, the left is the 1st draft.

I want someone to be able to wear this over or under their corset, under their coat, vest, etc. so it cannot be too huge. Also, if you are not used to wearing a bustle, you can find certain things difficult, like sitting, walking through doorways, squeezing past people, turning in a crowd. The ideas is that this unhooped bustle is soft enough and forgiving enough for the bustle novice, but a nice addition to the bustle fanatic.

It is too light weight to wear as a proper bustle but the point is that you can wear it with or without one and still achieve the look and fullness of a bu-donk-a-donk bustle. Now that the second draft is done, its time to make a prototype. Time to dig around in my fabric bins for test fabric!

*As promised!

Tags: 18th c., bustle, corset, steampunk

Whatchya doooooooin?

: brunettebubbles; February 8th, 18:10

So, since last we met, I was employed and living in Brooklyn, New York.

That has all changed. For the better. Well, at least the living part.

I am now in California and looking for employment. And looking. And looooooking. I'm just an amazing employee with 7 years managerial experience who believes in providing fabulous customer service.

But enough about the job market.

I have been working on some commissions while I wait for my adoring public to realize they adore me and give me money and kittens.
AND KITTENS!

Currently, I'm working on a 18th century corset commission and a new money making scheme.

But first, some pictures of corset making:

And now.....

the new money making scheme:
Tie-on/easy-on Bustles in the Steampunk themed fabric.
I have a few models in mind. Here is one thought.

Front

Back

Looks pretty boring, but with a drawstring at the center back, to create runching/more bustle-y goodness (check out the next post to see what I mean).

Front

Back
I'm thinking plenty of different fabrics and patterns, ruffles, lace, braid, fringe, chains and cord. I wanna make them reversible, with a layer of crinoline in between to help it keep shape.

I have a few other model ideas. Which I will get to once I work out the design of #1. then I'll start doing prototypes. And then find an excuse to wear them!

Tags: bustle, corset, costumes, steampunk

My Costuming Christmas List

: brunettebubbles; December 1st, 2011

Its been a while. I know. But since it is the season, here is my costuming Christmas list:

1) Shoes from American Duchess: "Georgiana", "Devonshire" or "Pemberly" (I don't care which I just want), size 81/2 or 9, because I have 3 dresses for each style and no period footwear. I NEED THESE SHOES. Also, I've heard nothing but good things about her shoes.

2) Gift certificate to Hart's Fabric, Stonemountain and Daughter Fabric or Spoonflower so I can buy more fabric.

3) A gift card to La Belle Fairy so I can buy one of her FABULOUS corsets.

4) ANY of the costume books on my Amazon wishlist, though I guess right now I'm obsessing over fashions from 1920-1950.

5) A millinary class, that would be cool.

Any of those would make me the happiest costume obsessed individuals.
Thanks Santa!

BTW, American Duchess is doing a Pre-sale for the Pemberly shoes:

"Pemberley" Regency Shoe Pre-Sale OPEN

Go forth, merry historical holiday shoppers, and order a pair of Pemberlies, the perfect Regency shoe, for your Jane Austen-obsessed love one, or treat yourself!
Pre-Order Now
November 25 - December 9
$80 (~~$95~~)
Ordering is UNLIMITED, on all women's USA sizes 6 through 12, including half sizes.
Click here
Orders of 5 + receive the special pre-order price, plus quantity and shipping discounts.
Delivery in early 2012.
*We need to sell just over 100 pairs of Pemberlies in order to manufacture them. If we don't meet that goal, all of you who did order will have to be refunded in full, and the Pemberlies will be canceled. If this is the Regency shoe of your dreams, please share, blog, tweet, tumble, stumble, and pass the news along.*

OK, OK. Real Quick

: brunettebubbles; September 25th, 2011

OK, Quick follow up to the Snow White dress.

Here are the photos of creating the bolero:

Wicked Fair OR My Interpretation of “Sexy” Snow White

: brunettebubbles; February 15th, 2011

So, the story goes that after I was born, my mom asked my brother what I should be named. His response was, "Snow White" because I was a girl, had black hair and he was a 5 year-old. Well, my parents didn't take his advice.
I've never been a super fan of the Disney version. Oh, Dopey and Doc are great comedic tools, but the shrill tone of Snow White's singing voice, while being popular in 1937, is like nails on a chalkboard. Also, I never "got" the costumes. I know its a fairy tale and I should suspend logic and timelines and stuff, but while everyone is in decent late Medieval/early Renaissance garb of the late 15th/early 16th century, she's running around in a cross between a bad Renaissance gown and a 1930's young woman's summer dress. That's the point, I KNOW, and like many "period" films, the costumes are supposed to give a sense of the different time while still giving you something familiar, like these examples:

The Virgin Queen (1955)

Madame Du Barry (1943)

Excalibur (1981)

A Knights Tale (2001)

But I should not be too judgmental. These costumes have a place in history. I guess.

So, on with the show. I'll be attending Wicked Fair this Sunday and the theme this year is "fairy tales gone awry" and I've decided, obviously, to be Snow White.
The Disney version is thus:

Not too awry, is it?

I want to do something that does not look like straight cosplay (I'll explain that term another time - look it up). Since the film opened in 1937 and has a bit of the 30's look to it, I decided to make the dress "sexy" by making it look more like a 1930's evening dress. What does that mean? BIAS cut.

mmmmmmmmm.

I picked up my fabric, all of it costing $60 total. I figure since its inspired by Disney, I can use cheap, crappy synthetic fabrics. I got some poly-satin in yellow and white, I'll use the reverse of the satin so its not too shiny and line with the white.

Note the shiny side that I will NOT be using.
I draped the bodice of the dress with scrap fabric,

then cut the actual fabric.

Front, unpinned

Front, pinned

The ragged edge shows where to put the pleat and how wide it must be

Align the zig with the zag and pin

Ta-da! And now for the back

looks kind of like the big 'ol elephant ears, huh?

one half and now the other

Pretty!

I'll be sewing tonight. I still need to cut the skirt.

I got some poly-organza for the bodice and sleeves. I'm going to make a bolaro to wear over the yellow dress, that way I have have the blue and bug sleeves with staying correct to style, fabric and sexy. This kind is a bit sparkly for me, but it will get the point across. Red ribbon for the hair, which I will fingerwave and pin curl, and yellow ribbon for a bow on each shoe. I also got come lace to edge the underskirt, since in the Disney version, sometimes her lacy petticoats show.

More photos and progress to come!

The Mending Circle OR Joining the Sewing Rebellion

: brunettebubbles; February 12th, 2011

So, a work colleague, who is also a textile art fiend, started the NYC chapter of a group of fellow textile-ies called Sewing Rebellion. Its part of a larger group, with chapters in Las Vegas, LA, Chicago, etc. The mission is to promote the textile arts of sewing, weaving, tailoring, dyeing, knitting, embroidery, etc. while creating/re-imagining old textiles into new uses: Shirts into apron, T-shirts into shopping bags are examples that their fearless leader, Frau Fiber, promotes on the main blog. Not exactly my bag, baby (as there are no corsets or crinolines), but they hold true to a principle that I believe in which is not just tossing something once it has worn out or loses it purpose.
I reuse pieces from old costumes for other costumes all the time. This is mostly due to time, financial and spacial strains. I would of course LOVE to always be recreating new pieces for every event. But then, I also find that the fact that I am being forced to adapt a preexisting piece, the final product works out better then the original idea. Think of it like using a restrictive color pallet: how you work around such restrictions and still achieve your goal is part of the fun.
I've always hated the term "disposable clothes". True, you can now purchase decent clothing at way cheap prices. So cheap, you could throw them away after 1-2 uses. I can't. I shop at Forever 21, Mandee, H&M, and Wet Seal for cheap clothes and accessories for my costumes. I have a general idea of the era, color and cut and then I see what I can find. I take apart those bought pieces and build the rest of the costume with great success.
This one in particular got me in the NY Times Style Section (thank you Bill Cunningham).

Photo courtesy of Numidas Prasarn.
This was made from a dress I got at Forever 21 and then changed the neckline. It was a halter top and I made it a cowl. The back was VERY low, so I attached a Forever21 necklace so that it would drape and hold the straps in place. Granted the skirt was 6 inches too short for the 1920's, but I was attending a Dances of Vice event, so such an anachronism is acceptable. I'll have to find the photo of the back, its rather AWESOME. Probably the most expensive thing on me, not including the hair accessory which was borrowed, was the wig.

Another re-imagined dress is this, which I wore to the Jazz Age Lawn Party on Governor's Island in 2009:

Photo courtesy of Voon Chew (who is a marvelous dancer, BTW).
This was an H&M dress that, again, I changed the neckline, dropped the waistline and added the black sash, flowers and beaded belt. Interestingly enough, there was another woman there wearing this same dress but in a rust color, though without the changes I made, duh.
I have reused this dress 3 times since, each time changing the skirt, neckline and appliques.

I attribute my comfort with taking apart/re-imaging my costumes to my high school art teacher, Katie Harper. Mrs. Harper is an inspiration. I remember once I was struggling on a oil painting that was not quite working. She assured me the piece itself is not THAT precious: "You can go back and change it next week, a year, 5 years. You can paint over it, you can add sunglasses. You decide when its finished, then change you mind and make it into something else." The things we create are not precious, but it is the ideas behind them that matter more. Also, reduce, reuse, recycle. And stuff.

The Textile Arts Center in Park Slope will be having a Mending Circle in partnership with Sewing Rebellion NYC on Sunday, Feb 13 from 1-4 p.m., celebrating fashion week. I'll join for the beginning as I have a part-aay to amateur bartend at later. I'll be bringing my Pennsic robe and maybe some old clothes I don't have the heart to throw out to see if anyone wants to use them.

Warm and Cozy for the Winter-time

: brunettebubbles; January 28th, 2011

So new projects: Upcycled Quilt Surcote/robe

This the subject of this post could also be called: My Obsession with Pennsic.

What IS Pennsic? Ah, good question. When I first heard the term “pennsic”, I thought it was a place. Then, I thought it was an event. Then, I thought it was a state of mind. Then, I thought it was a group of very odd individuals (odd in a good way). Finally, I learned the truth in the summer of 2009: it is all of the above. And, oh, so much more.

The best way I have found to describe Pennsic to others is to call it “camping with costumes”. It’s a nice phrase with a pleasant alliteration. In many ways, it is probably best to just leave the description at that, and not go into the myriad of details surrounding Pennsic. For those who appreciate my costuming as an expression of my creativity and who also enjoys pop culture costume events like Halloween or a themed party (and yet who do not have costuming, Medieval/Renaissance history, historic reenactment, battles, or music/dancing on the brain), “camping with costumes” is an apt description of Pennsic.

And yet, it is also incorrect. It’s not JUST camping with a couple of friends, its camping with 15,000 other history enthusiasts/nerds in the middle of Pennsylvania. It’s not just a renaissance faire on steroids, it’s a 2 week historical reenactment/battle/performance. It’s not just a few workshops for the tourists on “this is how they lived back then”, it’s an intensive school in all things Medieval/Renaissance such as dancing, music, cooking, swordplay, black and silver smithing, sewing, languages, weaving, yoga, customs, manners, travel, furniture, architecture, basket weaving, toys, games, archery, and
probably and out 20 other things I can’t think of. And this is the 40^th year. Yeah, that’s right. The BIG 4-0. Pennsic is hitting its “middle age”. Get it?

But, you really can’t explain it. People have tried, and yet I have not found anything that accurately describes it. And I won’t try to be the first here.

Sorry to be all mysterious. Or pretentious.

So, why am I obsessed? Because I intend to attend this year. Last time I was there it was my first year and I borrowed heavily from a friend’s wardrobe , or garb. Now, I want to make my own wardrobe.

AND SO:

The 1^st item to be made: the robe

I have an anthropologie quilt that a friend gave me. Well, I have loved it and used it into shreds and I don’t have the heart to toss it because it still "works"… it’s all quilty and warm-y and stuff. So, since it still looks cool, albeit a bit worn out, I decided to make it into a surcote. I figure I can use is a morning robe on those chilly evenings and mornings (because, although Pennsic takes place in August, there can be frost on the grass in the morning). I have had a Folkwear pattern for AGES and been meaning to use it. Granted, it’s for a 19th century Turkish entari. But the pattern is similar-ish to an English surcote from the 13^thcentury.

So, I cut out the pattern.

And I started sewing it by hand (since that is more historically accurate) and because its winter and I wanna.

But I also feel that I want to make this robe my own design, so I’m going to have it close with ties off center/sideseam, more like a Chinese monk’s robe.

I found I need to put in a dart at the sleeves, as the made the pattern XL for lots of comfiness, the sleeves are too long. And I would not want my sleeves getting stuck in my scrambled eggs or Pacita’s Pretty Pancake Preakfast [sic].

So far, the shoulder and side seams are done. I’m working on the sleeves now. I try it on and it’s a bit long but very warm. I might end up wearing it all the time!

Cake dress

: brunettebubbles; January 18th, 2011

I spend the majority of my sewing time creating the garment, and I tend to either not have time for the details or wing it last minute based on what I can create quickly. I'm not a big fan of sitting for endless hours pleating, gathering or stitching trim and lace. I like the construction of the garment to be interesting enough that it does not need all that. But then, when you do see a garment with a lot of time and thought spend on the trim, my work pales in comparison. Which is why I was delighted that, with the Baroque Ball, I could reuse one of my previous gowns and add trim like a mad woman.

So, I took the time to box pleat ribbon and fabric for hours while watching movies (Marie Antoinette, the usual Austen films brigade, with a dash of Edward the Seventh for Victoriana inspiration for the Steampunk event).

Wow. Lots of pinning. Lots of time. But a wonderfully mundane thing to do and let the mind wander.
I made a choker:

And attached much of the trim:

I had to reattach the skirt:

SO MUCH PINK!

I love it.
Unfortunately, I can't find any final pictures of the dress. I'll check my friend's FB page to see if she got any of me.

More to come about the Steampunk Alice dress and the newest project: upcyling an old Anthropologie quilt into a surcote/robe for Pennsic 40! (if you don't know what Pennsic is, stay tuned).

Tags: costume, dress, georgian costume, marie antoinette

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